Gasherbrums

Gasherbrum in local language means "Shining Wall". There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak 8,068m, is the highest peak among them. In 1936 the French Alpine Club planned an expedition which consisted of 10 members led by M. De Segogne . The expedition left Sirinagar by end of April with 500 porters and established base camp on 26 May at the foot of the golden Throne up at the end of the Baltoro glacier. To avoid the avalanche on the long steep snowfields a difficult route for the climb was planned to the south peak of the mountain, thence along an almost level razor backed ridge for a mile and up the pyramid peak itself. The climb throughout was thus slow and fixed ropes were mostly used, they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6,797 m as the weather set in too early and attempts were aborted. In 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Schoening and Kaufman were first to reach the summit. The approach route to Base camp starts from Skardu through Shigar Valley and approach trek starts from Askole through Baltoro glacier.

Gasherbrum II

The shining mountain on the Karakoram range is just second highest peak among the Gasherbrum Peaks with an altitude of 8,035m/. The first ascent was made by Austrians led by Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart on 8th July, 1956. They set up a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp I was set up at at 6,005m/. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently, they lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hansenpart set up a bivouac below 7,620m/. inspite of frostbites suffered in the bivouac, the three reached he summit of Gasherbrum II on 8th July and came back without meeting any further accident.

The climb on this peak is both on rock and ice. A high level of technical skill, physical fitness and acclimatization is required. The approach to basecamp is via Skardu and about a week trek on Baltoro Glacier.

Gasherbrum III

Gasherbrum III is situated between Gasherbrum II and IV and has a height of 7,952m/. It was the highest unclimbed peak upto 1974, before a polish ladies expedition, under the leadership of Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewics, climbed it on 11th August, 1975. The leader, along with Alison Chadwick, Janusz Onyszkiewicz and K. Zdzitowiecki, reached the top. The party claims that it was an all ladies expedition. It had, however, quite a few men probably to give moral support to the ladies , if and when needed, during the climb.

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For Broad Peak 8047m, Distaghil 7885 m, Kunyang Chhish 7852m, Masherbrum 7,821 m, Rakaposhi 7,788 m, Batura 7,785 m, Kanjut Sar 7,760 m, Chogolisa 7,665 m,and other major 7600 & 6000 peaks in the Himalayas contact our office for details.

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