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At 7492m Noshaq is the fourth highest peak of the Hindukush range . The mountain has four separate peaks . The main peak was climbed in 1960 along the south east ridge from the Qadzi Deh glacier by a Japanese expedition led by Professor Sakato. Other members of the expedition were G. Iwatsabo and T. Sakai.
The second highest peak in this range is Noshaq East at 7480m climbed in 1963 by Dr Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischinger from Austria. The third highest peak of the range Noshaq Central is 7400m . The Austrian expedition of 1963 of Dr Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischinger are also credited with climbing the fourth peak of Noshaq range called Noshaq West at 7250m.
The Afghan route follows the west ridge from where it is a relatively straightforward ascent and a Polish expedition in 1973 made the first winter ascent successfully. During the Russian war the low Sad Istragah pass was used as a mujahedin supply route and some of the adjoining areas around Qazi Deh was heavily mined which otherwise make it a potential risk route. Nowadays, the normal route is by Pakistan as arrangement in Pakistan follow a steady ploicy of regulation which has now considerably eased out also the route being techinical makes it all the more tough and interesting.
Across the Lowari pass to Chitral town , take time to see the Kalash valleys. Then the jeep road goes as far as Shahgrom but an alternate route over Zani pass is an excellent way to both acclimatize and get a good perspective of the major peak before you reach Shahgrom.
The peak is accessible through both Pakistan & Afghanistan as it is right on the border.
Logistically the route through Pakistan is more convenient as things are organized at this end. You follow the Tirich Mir route through the Lower & upper Tirich glaciers to Babu camp where you have views in all direction like Concordia. From here you branch out from the upper Tirich glacier in a different direction crossing a moraine between two icefalls then climb scree slopes to the south ridge. The two ice falls flowing from Noshaq make it a technically difficult ascent from this side , three camps are established before final ascent is made.
Alternately the other route through Afghanistan is from Badakshan & Wakhan . Though we have been organizing things in this area for the last 12 year but logistically its quite demanding. Approaching the peak through Afghanistan cost wise will be more expensive as Afghanistan is still in the process of settling down and stabilizing, one has to " constantly relocate connection” over there !.
Itinerary . Flexible expeditions itineraries are made by us looking at your requirements and demands.
For Istro-Nal. 7,403 m, Saragharar 7,349 m and other major peaks in the Hindukush & hindu Raj contact our office for details.